Akyaka: A Turkish Gem Unspoiled by Time
A Beachside Paradise, Unchanged by the Tides of Tourism
Imagine a beach bathed in the warm glow of a setting sun, the mountains casting a deep purple shadow over the town. This is the enchanting scene that greeted me on my recent visit to Akyaka, a small town nestled on the eastern end of Gökova Bay. It's a place where time seems to stand still, offering a charming contrast to the preening and posing found on other Turkish beaches.
Akyaka's Slow Charm
Akyaka, with its blue-washed buildings, has been a familiar friend for decades. Despite some changes, it has retained its authentic, slow-paced vibe. Part of this charm can be attributed to its status as one of Turkey's "slow towns," a movement focused on preserving local traditions and culture, and resisting the excesses of tourist development. The town's unique character is also a legacy of Turkish poet and architect Nail Çakirhan, who retired here in 1971, building a house that blended Ottoman design with local materials. This inspired a revival of local crafts, especially carpentry, and by the 1990s, Çakirhan's architectural standards became the norm.
A Turkish Haven
On my return visit with my husband, Mark, we discovered a place largely untouched by the all-inclusive resort culture. The lack of sprawling hotels means Akyaka remains a Turkish tourist haven, attracting visitors for its fish restaurants along the Azmak River, hiking trails through the Akyaka orman, or simply for a relaxing day of knitting on the beach.
The İskelem Otel Experience
We made İskelem Otel our home base, located on the other side of the pine forest, a short drive from town. Despite initial concerns about the lack of a beach, the warm welcome, stunning views, and ice-cold Efes beer quickly won us over. In the evenings, the İskelem transforms, with sunloungers replaced by candlelit tables on the jetty, surrounded by the sea.
The food is a highlight, from tangy sea bream to smooth Adana kebabs, and the breakfast spread is equally indulgent, featuring crispy börek, fresh tomatoes, and sizzling omelettes. I tell myself an hour of paddleboarding will burn it off, while Mark, with a more active morning planned, enjoys every bite.
A Watersports Paradise
For Mark, Akyaka's beauty is enhanced by its reputation as a leading watersports destination. The thermic winds that blow across the gulf provide perfect conditions for kite-surfing and wing-foiling, especially at Akçapinar Beach, about 10 minutes from town.
Exploring Beyond Akyaka
Beyond the town, there's plenty to discover. Göcek, with its gulets and sailing vibe, the peaceful Lake Köyceğiz surrounded by sweetgum forests, and the vibrant Muğla market, accessible via a breathtaking mountain drive, offer a range of experiences.
Turkey's Changing Landscape
Turkey is evolving, moving away from its traditional summer sun destination image. It's now a fragmented landscape, catering to the super-rich, health tourists, and all-inclusive resort guests. With hyperinflation and economic policies, prices are rising, making Turkey less of a budget option. However, places like Akyaka remain, offering an authentic experience and more reasonable prices.
Akyaka's Appeal
If you're seeking late-night cocktail bars or Michelin-starred restaurants, Akyaka might not be your cup of tea. But its unpolished beauty, from Turkish coffee and simit for breakfast to backgammon on the jetty, is what makes it so special. Akyaka is a place that makes you wonder why you'd choose anywhere else in Turkey. It's a true gem, waiting to be discovered.
